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In North Africa, almond blossoms typically appear early and in abundance, starting in mid-January and lasting until March, provided the season is favorable. For the communities of the Anti-Atlas, this generous sign from the land and nature has long symbolized Idernan, a time of peace and mutual hospitality between tribes, held the day after Yennayer. The festive beginning of this event was meant to signal a positive agricultural season ahead, reflecting the same spirit of gratitude for the land's abundance, as seen in the tradition of the Amazigh New Year.
Among the signs of goodwill exchanged between tribes during Idernan, sharing specific dishes is a key tradition. A must-have on the table is the eponymous galette, named after the celebration itself. Beyond the region, this dish is more widely recognized as a form of «baghrir» or «aderno» (pancake), traditionally served by Amazigh tribes shortly after Yennayer.
However, as customs evolved over the centuries, this preparation began to be served on other occasions to maintain the tradition of offering hospitality through dishes made from the earth's harvests and meant to be shared by many.
Dishes that reflect sharing between ancient tribes
As Yennayer approaches, families and communities don't just focus on the main course during the festive dinner. Before the collective banquet—where tagoula, ourkimen, barley couscous, or cornmeal couscous are served—guests enjoy a variety of other specialties, often served with tea or infusions made from local herbs, as appetizers.
While the Amazigh calendar has its origins nearly unanimously linked to the enthronement of Pharaoh Sheshonq I in 950 BC, Idernan has locally evolved as an occasion to share ancestral foods from the harvests that this date has symbolized over the centuries. Yennayer is also a festival during which different kinds of galettes are served, including those made from semolina, and occasionally flour or other unleavened doughs.
These dishes are complemented with some of the essentials of Amazigh tradition: honey, olive oil, argan oil, and ghee. The meal is also accompanied by dried fruits, primarily almonds and walnuts, which are staples in Amazigh gastronomy.
The origins of Idernan and its connection to sharing
There are few written historical accounts of the origins of Idernan, the name given to the pancakes commonly known as «baghrir», which are part of the traditions in various regions of Morocco. According to some oral versions, the celebration that gave this dish its name is linked to the Amazigh scholars of Souss, who promoted peace between tribes during the «siba» period, which was marked by popular revolts and dissidence from the 18th to the early 20th century.
In the context of famines, epidemics, and armed struggles, these influential figures managed to establish a truce. Among them, Sidi Mohammed Ajliy is said to have encouraged the tribes to end the bloodshed, primarily by sharing food equally and holding seasonal gatherings as soon as the almond trees began to blossom.
A tradition of sharing ancestral delicacies
As an extension of these customs, signs of solidarity and the strengthening of ties between the region’s tribes are illustrated through the transmission of values like respect and sharing, as well as through culinary traditions. Idernan, or doughnuts baked in an earthen bread dish coated with argan oil, are served during visits, alongside other preparations that later became part of Yennayer's festive tables.
These festivities are also marked by various artistic and cultural events, including local dances and musical traditions, which celebrate the values of sharing and openness to others.
