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Morocco’s ancient capitals … three cities you never heard of

Aside from the list of capitals that everyone knows about, such as Rabat, Fes, Marrakech and Meknes, Morocco had several forgotten cities that served as capitals for short and brief periods. Here is a list of three of them.

Taroudant, a former Saadi capital city. / Ph. DR
Estimated read time: 3'

Throughout history, Morocco had several capital cities. Aside from the most famous ones, such as Marrakech, Fes and Rabat, the different dynasties that once ruled the Kingdom made sure to construct and fortify their own capitals.

Based on their own political and military calculations at the time, they built unknown capitals and later abandoned them. Hajar al-Nasr, Taroudant or Aghmat, these were all capital cities that fell from grace once their rulers lost power or considered other geopolitical locations. In this article we discover their stories, heritage and not-so-happy endings.

Hajar al-Nasr or the «Eagle’s Rock»

The redoubt or fortress that was turned into a capital for Morocco, was the last refuge of the Idrisid dynasty, which ruled Morocco from 788 to 974. Hajar al-Nasr, or the Eagle’s Rock, served as an important military and political capital for the dynasty, at a time when its rulers needed protection the most.

Hajar al-Nasr is indeed one of those Moroccan capitals that few people know about. Located in north-west Morocco, the story behind this city marks the end of an era for the first Islamic dynasty in the North African country. Its creation was not a privilege, but more of a strategic solution that was influenced by the Kingdom’s political situation at the time.

Historians believe that Hajar al-Nasr was built after the Idrisids were expelled from Fes, their long-time capital and center of power. «Eventually expelled from their capital by the Miknasa Berbers, the Idrisids were driven into an alliance with the Umayyads of Cordoba, who allowed the dynasty to reconstitute itself», wrote Josef W. Meri in his book «Medieval Islamic Civilization» (Taylor & Francis, 2006).

Meri recalls that the Ummayad protection helped the falling-apart Moroccan dynasty build «in the 930s (…) their capital Hajar Al-Nasr».

Under the same circumstances, Emmanuel Kwaku Akyeampong, Henry Louis Gates and Steven J. Niven indicate in their «Dictionary of African Biography» (OUP USA, 2012), that the city was rather built during the «mid-ninth century», by «the ancestors of Ibn al-Mashish, a branch of the Idrisid clan», also chased from Fes.

Despite the slightly different stories linked to the ancient capital, most historians agree that the city gained fame and power due to the «conflict between Ummayads and Fatimids». However, while «caught in the crossfire of the conflict» between the two empires the Idrisids’ «territories fell into the hands of the Zenata powers», marking the end of the dynasty in 974.

Hajar al-Nasr, a former Morocco capital. / Ph. DRHajar al-Nasr, a former Morocco capital. / Ph. DR

Taroudant, the «grandmother of Marrakech»

Taroudant, this city located in the Souss Valley in southern Morocco, is as important as other imperial capitals in the Kingdom. Indeed, the small town east of Agadir, shares many characteristics with Marrakech, the capital of the Saadi dynasty.

First, just like Marrakech, Taroudant was a capital for the same dynasty, which ruled Morocco from 1549 to 1659. Similarly to the Red City, the Souss town served as a fortress for the Saadis when they were still trying to gain power.

History books reveal that «before they conquered Marrakech, they had Taroudant as their capital city», wrote Muzaffar Husain Syed, Syed Saud Akhtar, B D Usmani in their book «Concise History of Islam».

The city remained for a while the dynasty’s capital and center of power, before they decided to opt for Marrakech. According to the «Morocco Handbook with Mauritania», «Taroudant is nicknamed by the locals ‘the grandmother of Marrakech».

Although it was founded way before the Saadis gained power, Taroudant knew «its most glorious period», wrote Holidway. «The Emir Mohamed Sheikh Saâdi proceeded to the fortification of the city, opened by 5 vaulted gates of Moorish architecture, which became the first capital of the Saâdians», the same platform added.

The city was economically vibrant, had one of the most prestigious universities of the time and was home to some of the greatest scholars of the sixteenth century. But this did not stop the Saadi sultans from heading north.

A map of Taroudant. / Ph. DRA map of Taroudant. / Ph. DR

Aghmat, the former capital city of Almoravids

Aghmat, a small town in mid-southern Morocco, has a story that is similar to the one of Taroudant. Aghmat’s history has a chapter that refers to Marrakech, a city that stole the show and attracted the attention of the Almoravids.

Just like Taroudant, Aghmat, under the reign of Almoravids (1040–1147), was a flourishing political and trade center. It was the chief town in southern Morocco that was surrounded by «rich and well-irrigated gardens», wrote Abd Allah Ibn Bulluggin in his book «The Tibyān: Memoirs of ʻAbd Allāh B. Buluggīn, Last Zīrid Amīr of Granada».

«Aghmat was an active cultural center to which many scholars had flocked from strife-torn Cordoba and Qayrawan», he recalled.

The importance of Aghmat was marked by the role it played for the Almoravids. To them the city was a «principal residence and capital city for the next thirteen years», wrote Abu Ubaid al-Bakri in his book Kitab al-Masalik w’al-Mamalik (Book of Routes and Kings).

But, the city did not remain so vibrant for long, as Almoravid rulers decided to make of Marrakech their new capital after they «felt uncomfortable in the foothills of the High Atlas mountains where their opponents resided». As a result, Aghmat lost its prestige and declined in favor of Marrakech, the next capital city of the Almoravid dynasty.

Hajar al-Nasr, Taroudant and Aghmat are not the only former Morocco capitals out there, many other cities have gone through similar situations. Here, we recall Taza, a capital city for the Marinid dynasty and Anfa (a former name for Casablanca) and Azemmour, two cities that briefly served as capitals for the Barghawata state.

Aghmat, a former Almoravid capital city. / Ph. DRAghmat, a former Almoravid capital city. / Ph. DR 

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