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August 9, 2006 is a day that will for ever and ever be engraved in the mind of Ismael Bouattou. It is the unforgettable day in which he boarded a small boat to migrate irregularly to the Canary Islands, alongside 16 other young, desperate Moroccans, including his older brother. Ismail was only 15 when he decided to leave Ait Cherrou, a small village in the Tighassaline commune near Khenifra, to embark on this risky journey. 17 years later he tells Yabiladi that he initially «left the countryside for the city of Dakhla with one objective in mind, emigrating». In southern city, he «worked in fishing for two months», to be able to pay «smugglers for the passage».
«I was not thinking of death prior to the trip. I was certain I would be able to reach the other side of the ocean. But as soon as we embarked on the boat and sailed through the high seas, I was terrified. The journey lasted three days and I was full of despair. I was scared, hungry, cold, thirsty and the winds were violent.»
The young man, who dropped out of primary school to help his farmer father, said that, as soon as their boat reached the Las Palmas shore, they «ran in all directions». «I lost sight of my brother, and I was arrested with another migrant. We were subjected to examinations revealing our true age, which confirmed to the authorities that we were indeed minors,» he recalls.
Finding refuge in cooking
Ismail and his companion were both transferred to an accommodation center on the island of El Hierro, in the Canary Islands. «I was enrolled in a public school. At first, I had a hard time learning the language. But after four months, I started speaking Spanish,» he recalls. After years of studying, the young man obtained a cooking diploma.
«When I arrived, I was unable to contact my parents for two months, but they learned from other people in Morocco that we had been able to cross the sea. They were somewhat reassured by the news,eventhough theydid not really have details about our situation. At least, they were sure that we were not dead.»
The 31-year-old cook managed to get a five-year experience in the catering industry on the island of El Hierro. He then moved to the island of Fuerteventura, where he worked in the same sector for twelve years. Three years ago, experienced and a master of the field, he decided to launch his own project, mainly dedicated to Moroccan cuisine. His menu offers iconic Moroccan dishes, such as couscous, tagine and other local specialties he learned from his mother.
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The young restaurateur started the project with a small capital, but also with the great certainty that his investment was enough for a steady growth. His project was welcomed among his community. «I named the restaurant 'Una Mano' (One Hand), because I believe that when we stand together, we help each other to form the fingers of one hand and then we can achieve what we want,» he explained.
Giving back to parents
Years after he left for the Canary Islands, Ismael Bouattou returned to Morocco for the first time. «I went through harsh times during which I doubted my decision of leaving my country. But each time, I overcame the obstacles I faced. And the proof is where I am today, and the growth of my project,» the entrepreneur added.
Ismael also tried to invest in Morocco, but he encountered many obstacles which made him reconsider his decision. Furthermore, the young restaurateur is committed to giving back a little of what his parents gave him, after they worked hard to guarantee him a decent life. «They worked other people’s lands, looked after the sheep in exchange for a house that gave them shelter from the scorching summer sun and the freezing winter cold,» he remembers.
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Today, he manages to provide for all his parents' needs, including food and shelter. On the island of Fuerteventura, the Una Mano restaurant has gained fame. Its owner is working to make it a space through which stereotypes about immigrants in general and Moroccans in particular are erased, by showing pride in his origins.
