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Id Yennayer, Yennayer, or the Amazigh New Year are all names given to this time of year, which others also call the «agrarian new year». Indeed, this centuries-old celebration is an opportunity to cherish the values of sharing and generosity, as well as the symbols of abundance that accompany them, starting with Mother Earth and the life it makes possible.
The celebration is also an opportunity to serve many dishes and local delicacies to celebrate the New Year. These festivities are marked by large-scale gatherings, beyond the strictly family circle. In addition to passing on culinary know-how and the values of sharing, resilience, and respect, the Yennayer celebration serves as an occasion to foster a sense of community life. It highlights the importance of collective work on the land, where the fruits of labor are achieved through the contributions of every man, woman, and child to the common good.
The origins of this celebration date back to the enthronement of the Amazigh pharaoh Sheshonq I. Ancient Egypt was the first civilization to develop culinary know-how based on kneaded seeds, starting with bread-making and fermentation. More broadly speaking, until then, the population ate unleavened porridges and pancakes.
Symbolically, the spirit of sharing the know-how and values that have been associated with Yennayer over the centuries is prominently visible on the plates, with ingredients that refer to the land and local produce: olive oil, argan oil, honey, ghee (smen), white beans, lentils, chickpeas, barley, corn, dried peas, dried fruit, dried vegetables, local herbs, or even dried meats, including goat's feet (ikikr), depending on the region.
After the Gregorian New Year, it's time for the more ancient Amazigh New Year throughout North Africa, including Morocco. Throughout the country, many regions celebrate the Amazigh New Year with a collective dinner. In the Souss region in particular, the feast is built around a thick porridge that takes pride of place at the center of the table: tagoula.
The Moroccan National Tourist Office (ONMT) points out that Tiznit is one of the region's main towns where this preparation is served according to the rules of art and culinary tradition.
«Amnaz», the thousand-year-old bean of blessing
Served hot in winter, this dish is often made with corn or barley semolina. In summer, tagoula becomes a preparation as nutritious as it is refreshing, served warm or chilled, with whey (lben). Beyond its deliciousness, the preparation itself reflects a philosophy of life that has been celebrated down the centuries.
Indeed, the secret of tagoula's success lies in the patience with which it is meticulously cooked, over low heat and ideally over a wood fire, for hours on end, until the seeds are tenderly cooked. For a festive touch, New Year's tagoula can be accompanied by other ingredients, beyond the classic bowl of olive or argan oil. Depending on availability, it can be dressed with dates and almonds.
As with the galette des rois, which celebrates the Epiphany in January, the Yennayer tagoula has its own sweet seed, which young and old alike have fun finding, to see who will be lucky enough to carry the blessing continuously until the next annual rendezvous. It's called «amnaz», a date hidden in the middle of the tagoula dish.
According to popular belief, discovering it will bring good luck throughout the year. In addition to dried fruit, tagoula is served with a drizzle of olive or argan oil, or honey and ghee. At the table, everyone serves themselves as they please, adding an extra dose of one of these components depending on their appetite. Those with a sweet tooth can also accompany their dish with a creamy amlou, the traditional almond marmalade.
Beyond the tagoula, the Yennayer table can be enriched with a variety of patiently simmered dishes. Some communities opt for another equally legendary main course: couscous. In the regions most steeped in Amazigh culture, couscous is prepared with barley or corn, green leaves, and seasonal vegetables, mainly turnips and carrots. Contrary to the more modern, commonly accepted version, Amazigh New Year's t'am is generally prepared without meat.
