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Agriculture was one of the main economic activities in Al-Andalus, strengthened by trade and maritime exchanges across the Mediterranean basin. This sector thrived thanks to the substantial contributions of scholars, botanists, and the integration of advanced techniques to optimize local agricultural production. During the caliphal period, the Iberian Peninsula also flourished due to its intellectuals, the development of music and knowledge, as well as culinary traditions that continue to shape the region’s daily practices, blending local and foreign influences.
Other industries also contributed to the wealth of caliphal Andalusia’s social and economic fabric. Among them, the textile industry emerged as a cornerstone of the economy. It saw significant growth under the Umayyads, who ruled the Muslim world from 661 to 750 before establishing their rule in Al-Andalus from 756 to 1031. For several centuries, the emirate and later the caliphate of Cordoba witnessed the proliferation of state-run textile workshops, while others remained family-owned.
This period was marked by a complex economy in which rural markets and urban trade centers provided opportunities for various professions linked to agriculture and artisanal industries. The growth of textile production, particularly from the 10th century onwards, benefited from this dynamic environment.
Expertise Enriched by Fabric Trade from the East
Silk farming was introduced to the Iberian Peninsula in the 8th century by the Qaysis, who migrated from Mesopotamia to settle in these fertile lands. They capitalized on Andalusian agricultural production, particularly in farms known as alquerías. Among the many cultivated plants, mulberry trees were especially valuable, as the silkworms that fed on them produced raw materials for high-quality fabric.
The Middle Eastern settlers maximized the profitability of these farms through their mastery of sericulture, a skill honed through centuries of trade with merchants from the Far East. In Al-Andalus, Muslims introduced horizontal looms and advanced infrastructure to support every stage of textile production, fostering a pioneering industry.
The Region of Andalusia highlights one of the most remarkable textile artifacts produced between the 10th and 11th centuries in the royal tiraz (workshop) of Cordoba—an intricate piece commissioned by the Umayyad caliph Hisham II, now housed at the Royal Academy of History in Madrid. This artifact, a turban, was designed to drape over the head, with two bands extending along the arms.
This exquisite piece is crafted from an exceptionally fine silk and linen fabric, richly embroidered with gold and silver threads and decorated with three bands along its entire length. Granada’s silk would later gain renown for its superior quality, as silkworms in the highlands also fed on mulberry leaves. Under the Nasrid rulers, silk production reached new heights, cementing the region’s reputation for excellence.
Despite political struggles and the weakening of Umayyad rule in the early 11th century—marked by the first Taifa period—sericulture remained deeply ingrained in the economic fabric of Al-Andalus. The Almoravid conquest (1086–1147) later contributed to the sector’s continuity and expansion.
Division of Labor and Improvement of Woven Products
The professionalization of the textile sector was driven by innovations that complemented agricultural activities. Researcher José María Moreno Narganes from the University of Alicante, in his work «Weaving at Home: Textile Activities and Domestic Spaces in Al-Andalus (12th–13th centuries)», highlights how domestic industries remained integral to the economy until the late Middle Ages. Textile production supported self-sufficiency at individual, family, and community levels.
During the caliphal period, textile production was characterized by the establishment of multiple tiraz workshops, state-controlled production units financed through tax collection and managed by officials. These workshops coexisted with domestic production, where labor and means of production converged within households, often specializing in wool or linen.
The growing importance of the textile industry paralleled urban expansion and the strengthening of artisanal and commercial sectors. History professor Eneko López Martínez de Marigorta, in his article «How al-Andalus wrapped itself in a silk cocoon: the ṭirāz between Umayyad economic policy and Mediterranean trade», describes the increasing centralization of textile production and its impact on economic organization.
The Mozarabic bishop Recemundo documented these developments in 961 in his «Book of the Division of Times» or «Cordoba Calendar», noting that silk and other materials were collected as taxes to support these workshops. This illustrates the interplay between different scales of production within the broader economic framework.
Cited by José María Moreno Narganes, the doctoral thesis «Working from Home: Spinning and Weaving Activities in the Domestic Space of Al-Andalus (9th–13th centuries)» further explores access to raw materials. These materials, sourced from agriculture (cotton, linen, hemp, or esparto) or livestock (wool or silk), were processed using the available technological infrastructure.
Although documentation on decentralized textile production remains limited, combining historical writings with archaeological findings allows researchers to identify tools used in fabric-making.
Women’s Role in Textile Production
Textile production flourished largely due to female labor. Women not only produced textiles for their families but also supplied the wealthier classes. Their contributions were so significant that various historical sources—including ḥisba treaties, chronicles, and fatwas—frequently mention women’s involvement in textile activities.
The tools used in textile production became increasingly refined over time. From the 12th century onward, smaller and lighter bone spindle whorls replaced heavier ones, improving the efficiency of spinning. This led to finer threads, enabling the production of more elaborate, high-quality fabrics and enhancing the profitability of the entire textile sector.
Vertical weaving techniques, introduced as early as the 2nd century AD, spread throughout the Mediterranean and persisted until the 20th century with regional adaptations, as noted by Moreno Narganes.
The Evolution of Textile Production After the Fall of Al-Andalus
Following the fall of Granada in 1492, marking the end of Muslim rule in Al-Andalus, the late 15th century witnessed a restructuring of the textile sector within an evolving urban framework. These transformations continued into the 16th century, driven by shifts in industrial production and regional political changes in the Mediterranean.
The heights of La Alpujarra, in Granada, became a historic center for silk fabric production, maintaining its legacy even after the decline of the caliphate.
Throughout these transformations, the achievements of the caliphal period remained foundational. The fiscal system established during this era supported the textile industry’s development, linking agriculture, livestock, and craftsmanship to sustain demand for wool, linen, and cotton. The wealthier classes favored luxurious textiles, including velvet, taffeta, damask, brocade, and satin, reinforcing Al-Andalus’s legacy as a hub of textile excellence.
